How Can Beard Growth Oil Recipe DIY for Black Men Support Your Beard Goals

After two days, it's time to see a new crew, and there are bumps on the neckline, tiny and red, and you may find yourself avoiding a close shave altogether because they hurt so much.

You've tried a more-denser beard oil; decreased trimming; even alternated with another double-headed razor twice. For a week, the bumps recede, and then a bump appears again, in the exact same spot where the previous bump healed.

This is not a shaving issue — or a bad-oil issue, for that matter — and it's not a common problem for the majority of guys. It's a curl-pattern issue, and it impacts the way the oil should be applied, not the type of oil that should be added to the bottle.

Beard hair is coily and tightly curled — straight hair was never designed for your type of hair. Get the application right and the majority of the problems that you perceive are the same basic problem that manifests itself in different spots on your face.

It can't be the shaving problem if the bumps on your neck line are razor-thin.

Razor bumps appear as tiny, inflamed pustules in the same few areas—typically along the neckline and jaw—usually a day or two after shaving or close cutting of facial hair and tend to recur in the same areas every time.

It's not just a nuisance from shaving, repeated bumps in the same area are what lead to scarring and permanent darkened patches of skin — it is a skin issue that you're creating for the future.

In most instances that I've encountered, the inflammation is a result of the curl pattern itself: hair that is tightly curled, when cut, curves back into the skin and begins to grow again where it caused the inflammation.

Oil won't necessarily prevent that curve from happening; it won't work unless it's combined with something that will help the hair grow outward rather than down into the follicle.

To fix it:

• Mix 1 tablespoon of black seed oil with 3 tablespoons of jojoba oil in a small bottle.

• If ingrown ends, use 4 drops after shaving or trimming, massage against the direction of the hair for 30 seconds to lift the ingrown ends free.

• Brush your hair 20 times a night, extending the brush strokes from the roots to the tips, with a soft boar-bristle brush, to condition your hair and help keep it away from your skin.

The anti-inflammatory properties of black seed oil soothe the inflammation around the follicle; and the mechanical action of pulling the curls outwards during each night's brushing eliminates the mechanical causes of this inflammation.

When the skin is ashy, it is a sign that the oil is not reaching the root.

Asy looking patches under the beard become visible as a grayish discoloration of the skin, particularly the face, after lighting in the mirror, and even hours after applying the oil in the morning!

It's important because it's the initial impression made, before the impression of the beard itself — ashiness is like a neglected skin, even on a well-groomed and well-shaped beard.

Dryness is more apparent in melanin rich skin than it is in lighter skin so a moderate amount of dehydration is visible as a different grey color on this skin type.

Most men are topicalizing with oil on the hair shaft and the ashiness is coming from the skin under it, which is hardly touched.

To fix it:

• For a lighter, quicker absorbing mix, mix 2 tablespoons of shea-infused jojoba oil with 1 tablespoon of grapeseed oil.

• Divide beard into 4-5 small strands and put 2 drops directly onto the skin of the areas, massaging each area for 45 seconds, total.

• Repeat in the evening during colder weather, as skin may dry out more rapidly than can be replenished in one morning's application.

The fatty acids that occur in Shea butter lie on the surface of the skin and help to prevent moisture loss, and the application of Shea butter to the skin, not just to the hair, makes a difference when it comes to resolving that gray cast, rather than adding shine on top of it.

A weekly detangling shampoo can be used to prevent snaggy curls from forming.A hair detangling shampoo can be applied as a weekly product to help prevent snaggy curls from forming.

Beard hair is coarser, tighter and more coiled than straighter hair and when you comb through a knot without preparation you lose a few hairs at the knot.

Depending on the months, this can manifest itself as a beard that never grows beyond a certain length, even though it's growing continuously.

What the problem is is the coil, each twist within the hair shaft is a weak point and the hair, when dry, has little to no slip and the comb will not glide down it but rather grab and pull.

Straight or wavy hair is not plagued with this problem because they don't have as many twist points per inch that can catch.

To fix it:

• Mix 1 tablespoon of castor oil with 3 tablespoons of sweet almond oil for slip and strength together.

• After showering, when your beard is softest, apply 6 drops to a damp beard, massage through with fingers and then comb.

• Don't comb top down through entire beard, instead comb in 2" sections, starting at the ends and working up once a week.

Instead of combing through the entire knot, working from the ends up allows you to tackle only one small knot at a time, and the almond oil makes the combing process easier since it does not cause as much friction at each twist point of your hair.

The area of baldness close to your cheek is more responsive to targeted stimulation.

As a patch that's near your cheek or along your jawline looks different than thinning out all over — it's a distinct gap that growth is clearly behind the rest of your beard and it's typically in the same place it's always been thin.

It is the detail that undercuts a full beard, as a single big hole is more noticeable than a full beard.

Patchy areas typically will not have as many follicles per square inch, or will just be less active than the rest of the beard, and widespread bearded oiling is not likely to provide the area with enough targeted stimulation to make a difference.

To fix it:

• Combine 1 tablespoon castor oil and 2 tablespoons Rosemary Infused Jojoba.

• Apply 5 drops directly to the patchy area only once a day, twice, small circles for 90 seconds.

• It should be applied in its entirety for a period of at least 10 weeks before assessing its effectiveness because the response of follicles in a sparse area is delayed compared to an already active area.

Rosemary oil has been seen to have similar effects to low strength minoxidil in small studies, and massaging the oil directly on the patch — not the entire beard — seems to be what boosts blood flow to the underactive follicles rather than distracting it all over the beard.

The use of the proper oil will cause dark marks from old irritation to fade, not just time.

Dark spots and discoloration around the jaw and neck are the result of months or years of razor bumps and irritation and usually persist long after the bumps have healed.

It is usually the most threatening stage of the entire process because the irritation stops, but the sign of it doesn't.

The pigmentation on the skin is an extra layer that the skin has applied to heal the inflammation, causing the skin to leave a mark behind for a few weeks or months — just as it normally does when healing — but in this instance, it leaves a mark behind.

To fix it:

• Add 1 tablespoon of vitamin E oil to 3 tablespoons of argan oil.

• Cleanse, massage dark spots with 3 drops for 60 seconds and go to bed.

• Pair with the neckline routine above since new marks will not form as old marks fade, which is what would happen if you simply treated the marks without cessation of new irritation — the clock would get reset.

Vitamin E helps to speed up the turnover of skin cells which gently fade the hyperpigmentation from the inside, and argan oil's fatty acids maintain the skin barrier around the area in place and strong for even healing.

Your beard may appear shorter than it is because it is shrinking.Your beard could look shorter than it is because it is shrinking.

Even if you don't have patchiness or breakage and your beard is growing continuously, it can still appear shorter than you thought after months of growth, length just seems to stall out below where it should be.

This is one of the more frequent grievances of men who have coily hair, because their beards don't look like they are performing when they're not.

The shrinkage is caused by the pattern of the curls, which is that they will shrink the same way as tangling does, so a hair that is actually 3 inches in length will look like half of that.

Not a growth rate problem – rather a measurement problem due to the same problem with the curl as the other problems here.

To fix it:

• Add 1 tbsp castor oil to 3 tbsp jojoba oil, as is done with stimulation in the other parts of the routine.

• The proper way to apply it is when the beard is still wet, stretch the hair gently downwards using a wide-tooth comb for 60 seconds before it dries, the resulting length is true length, not coiled length.

• Use the stretched, moist beard, not the coiled, dry beard, when taking measurements; measure growth from a fixed point on the lower part of the chin, every 3 weeks.

Comparing a beard that's coiled with a beard that's straight is comparing like to unlike, and the growth rate that obtained was the same all along after a while most boys will realize.

Bringing It Together

None of these six problems are distinct problems, a snapping from tangling beard is the same as an unappealing neckline that was experiencing razor bumps, and the latter ends up with dark spots a few months later.

But the common theme that runs through almost everything is curl pattern – how curlicue hair tangles, coils, curls and holds moisture compared to straight hair – which is why generic, one-bottle beard oil tips never work.

It is easy to get the whole six together in a realistic week's schedule. Black seed and jojoba are applied on the neckline after each shave.

Not only for hair, but also for bare skin in order to improve the condition of skin cells in colder seasons, shea-infused oil is applied.

Once a week on damp hair, Castor and almond oil are used for detangling and a rosemary-jojoba mix is used twice a day to focus the attention on any patchy area.

Vitamin E and argan work on dark circles at night, and it's the same castor-jojoba base you use for your damp-stretch measuring every couple of weeks.

The razor bumps and ashiness will noticeably decrease in 2-3 weeks. Hair detangling stops to breakage after about one month when the hair is regularly treated with oil and handled gently.

Both patchy zones and dark marks take a little longer, realistically anywhere from 8-12 weeks, because they aren't just a surface touch-up, but they require the follicles to be regrown or existing pigment to fade.

This won't correct severe scarring caused years of untreated irritation and when it comes to recurring acne after diligent treatment, it's not worth the dermatologist's advice.

Other than the small bumps you'll see along the neckline, the grey, sun-bronzed skin that you see in bright sunlight, and the beard that hasn't changed length in months — this is what sets apart the two scenarios of dealing with your curl pattern and fighting it.

FAQs

Is it effective to use DIY beard oil on coily or curly beard hair?

Yes, if the blend and application take into account coiling or tangling of hair, as opposed to just the ingredients in the bottle. These oils such as Castor and Jojoba, when used on damp hair, along with brushing the hair outward, will solve the problems that typically the general advice is not addressing.

How many times a week should black men use beard oil to grow their beards?

Two times a day in the patchy or slow growing areas, one time a day for general maintenance. It is more important to be consistent for 8-10 weeks rather than adding more oil in one session.

Does beard oil work for treating ingrown hairs and razor bumps?

It can, especially anti-inflammatory oils such as black seed oil mixed with outside brushing that encourages the hair to grow outward rather than back inward. Brushing the hair is typically not a step that's performed when using oil alone; this typically only helps to bring temporary relief from symptoms but does not affect the underlying curl pattern.

Would it be advisable to apply castor oil to textured beard hair?

No, castor oil is suitable for coarse, coily hair as it gives slip and prevents tangling and breakage. It is usually mixed with a lighter oil (jojoba or almond) as pure castor oil may be too thick to be used on thicker beards.

How long does it take for the DIY beard oil to get rid of the dark marks?

This will take several weeks to seven months for most guys to experience the fading they desire, as it's the process of skin cell turnover that's operating here and it doesn't take place all at once. If new irritation continues in the same area, it will take longer until the result is achieved as the new marks will start the fading process again.

Is shea butter good for ashy beard skin?

Yes, shea butter has fatty acids on the skin's surface that help to prevent moisture from escaping and actually help remove the gray, ashy look, not shine to the hair. It is the application under the skin, not the beard hair that makes the difference.

Is it safe to apply beard oil to a freshly shaved or sensitive skin?

Generally, a gentle anti-inflammatory ingredient such as black seed oil and jojoba is safe immediately following shaving and will help alleviate irritation. Essential oils that are stronger, such as tea tree or peppermint, are more suited to non-irritated skin and may irritate recently shaved skin.

Why is my beard shorter than it should be for the amount of time that I have grown it?

It typically isn't slow growth, it's a curl pattern shrinkage; tightly coiled hair just pulls itself up on itself, so what you see is shorter than the length of the hair. If the beard is measured when it is still wet and stretched, it will be more representative of the true growth than when it is dry and coiled up.

How many times a day should you untangle a coarse or coily beard?

It's typically only needed once a week, plus regular daily oiling and, more frequently, detangling when the hair is dry and loose can lead to more hair loss than prevention. Detangle the hair from the bottom of the beard up, never by working from the top down through the entire beard, and always on oiled hair that is damp.

Is DIY beard oil safe for sensitive or acne-prone skin?

Yes, in general, but start with something light like jojoba or grapeseed oil and add more potent ingredients over time. If you use any new blend for the first time do a spot test on your inside forearm for 48 hours before applying it all over your body, and try not to combine more than one active oil, such as tea tree and vitamin E, in the same application until you are sure it agrees with your skin.